La Collection Couturier Parfumeur: Leather Oud by Christian Dior

Year: 2010
Nose: François Demachy

Leather Oud opens with a dark and dry accord of woody oud – quite different from usual ouds, at least the Western ones (Montale etc.), really "woody" and smoky in fact, not rubbery and not synthetic – enhanced by more aromatic and softer woods (I feel sandalwood above all), an austere leather accord - a bit plastic but good, dark, "roasted" - well sweetened by beeswax and dry honey, tonka, a slight sugary note on the base, a tasty aroma of coffee and a subtle floral breeze all over. Smoky, gloomy, dry, subtly sweet yet subtly musky at the same time, really elegant and sophisticatedly modern, with a decent leather accord – sharp and restrained, but well executed, and with a compelling tanning richness showing class and substance. Effectively, despite being a designer, it smells more like a good example of a niche leather-woody scent. Frankly I don't smell much civet in here, and overall much animalic stuff at all; rather than civet, just a (sheer) synthetic reconstruction of this note, which creates a light feel of "animalicness" that however does not even compare to real animalic notes that can be largely found is several vintage chypres and fougères – to which, by the way, Leather Oud seems taking part of its inspiration from (while sniffing this one I though of Ferré, Krizia, Balenciaga...). Nothing amazing, but good - insanely priced good.


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