Uèrmì Fragrance Collection - Part II

Some months ago I reviewed two scents from this new Italian niche line, now here's the remaining three ones. None of which is particularly less or more "meh" than the others. I've heard they've a new one out which is called "Latex" but I have no further information about that.

AB ± Cashmere

Year: 2014
Nose: Jean Jacques

The opening of Cashmere is extraordinarily similar to Scent Intense by Costume National, just a bit less "intense" and more greyish, but the notes are incredibly close (I have a bottle of the Intense and I just applied it on my other arm: the similarity is *really* close, especially initially and for quite a while). Basically Cashmere smells of sandalwood (a lot), cashmeran, a synthetic amber note (more like ambrette seeds or cetalox) and something fruity-floral on top, with the peculiar lively-aromatic juiciness of tea (Scent Intense comprises a tea leaves note, this one has osmanthus which is quite close to tea - not to insist on the comparison, but well...). All over this glossy, artificial creamy-woody-fruity concoction stands a light, grey, slightly dusty breeze of synthetic resinous incense. Say, something halfway Cuiron (apparently now that it's back in a different formulation we have to get used to say "the vintage" Cuiron), more or less any sandalwood scent (I thought of Geo Trumper's Sandalwood, for instance, but any average-cheap sandalwood works the same as reference) and as I said, Costume National's Scent Intense. After a while it becomes more a generic sandalwood scent on the sweet-creamy side, always also quite fruity. Pretty pointless to be honest, just get one of the scents I mentioned, which all cost a fraction of this (except Cuiron, obviously).

5/10

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OH ± Denim

Year: 2014
Nose: Philippe Bousseton

Denim opens with a clean blend of neroli, ylang, tuberose, a creamy base of white musks, with a tiny dense taste of red pepper. A soapy-powdery floral scent, creamy and "white", luminous, synthetic (therefore plain and chemically "sharp") but nonetheless somehow vibrant and nice, although not that captivating or intriguing – in other words, pleasant and cozy as an ylang-white musks soap gel. I honestly don't smell the oak moss note, the only thing which may be closer to it is just a canonical balmy-earthy base. I assume the connection to denim is cotton, as this delicate, soft, mellow floral scent surely does not connect with the "rawness" of jeans. Synthetic drydown, but pleasant. Not bad (meaning not stinky), but not worth its price.

5,5-6/10

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UR ± Silk

Year: 2014
Nose: Jean Jacques

Silk is a floral-green-fruity scent on the "white" side, fairly milky and soapy (white musks), with fresh and zesty green-citrus notes and a heart of synthetic fruits among which, most prominently, fig (again...). Overall, Silk is not particularly "sweet" as a gourmand, rather somehow liquid like a sun lotion, to which in fact it resembles quite a bit - so think of any other "beach cream" scent to get a rough idea (from Sun by Jil Sander to Shunkoin by Xerjoff and countless others). Still, among UèrMì line, it is probably the less dull: it smells minimal and simple as per concept of the line, but the notes smell somehow richer, denser, more realistic and nuanced than others. Not enough to avoid boredom, though: it smells richer than other UèrMì's, but in my opinion still quite plain, and despite seeming more realistic, it's still heavily synthetic, a side-effect you can smell quite clearly on the drydown - which carries that everlasting, plastic, annoying "fruity shampoo" feel of many fruity scents. Short longevity.

6/10