Zarkoperfume - Three picks

A relatively new niche house base in Denmark, three picks from their line.


Sinking again in the "minimal-futuristic-industrial" niche cliché. Inception is, basically, a bomb of cold metal, pollution gas, calone, carbon and aldehydes, with a subtle silky breeze of flowers, sheer and transparent like frozen among this industrial-azure noise; sour and venom green notes encrusted in the aldehydes, and a generic woody base. That's it, the olfactory depiction of any hipster "post-industrial" ambiance - with water (think of some Hashima island). The evolution is close to zero, the persistence - given it's all so dramatically synthetic - is deadly everlasting. Nothing new in the segment, but if you're into that...




The name is a bit deceptive (but I guess it's intended and ironical), as Oud'ish is basically an ambery scent with sweet, dusty notes of olibanum blended with a sort of abstract, thin, soft and sheer oud note, providing a subtle feel of dry, smoky, brownish and rubbery woodiness. Which is nice, by the way, as it smells like a sort of "empty" devoided note of oud, and that seems a clever idea to me – also, and most important, cleverly executed. In a way, this is not far from the drydown of early M7, less sweet and more green, also thanks to its green tea note. Moreover it has a bolder and cold "futuristic" feel all over, provided by a thin calone note (again...), which fluctuates over this warm, brown blend like an icy, sheer, industrial azure breeze. The contrast is indeed nice, you wouldn't say that (well, I did not surely), but it works somehow. The most interesting and compelling among the three I've tested from this house.




E'L is another calonic scent which smells basically like Inception from this same house, just a bit toned down, softer, slightly gentler, with an abstract floral-woody breeze. Less aggressive and metallic than the other one, but we're close to it. I appreciate the attempt to offer another ozonic scent, in 2014, without pushing on the "sea-iodine-fresh" communication marketing, but trying to keep it more decontextualised and abstract; yet the smell is always the same – I mean, calone is calone, that bold, cold, metallic stuff, whatever way you try to place it. Uninteresting for me, but if you're into the genre...


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