Mainstream Roundup #1

This is the first of a "roundup" weekly post series I will (try to) hold each week, focusing on a different theme - mainstream, vintage, brands and so on. 

Eau des Merveilles by Hermès

Year: 2004
Nose: Ralf Schwieger, Nathalie Feisthauer

Citrus, vanilla, violet, sandal wood, a lavender accord, some metallic aldehydes feel, nice fruity notes (a hint of freshly-cut pimiento) and quite a recognisable load of Iso E Super plus hedione. Which smell great. A bit later you get more clearly the amber-vetiver base. I don't get the balsamic aroma which should be there, actually the more minutes pass the more I get only the aromachems and the other notes vanish – what you get then for hours is a salty, pleasant, synthetic "good feeling", like a cozy, clean, opalescent airport lounge where *someone* with a good scent and just a hint of sweat has just left leaving you there alone (hedione and Iso E - if you know Odeur 53, that's it, and I quite like that kind of subtle, weird salty/woody/milky accord). Unisex, slightly floral, slightly salty-skin, pleasant and with a hell of persistence. More "eau" than "merveille", but still nice - more "avantgarde" than it may look like.



Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel

Year: 2001
Nose: Jacques Polge

Aldehydes, vanilla, rose, jasmin, ylang, something fresh and green, opoponax, lemons, soft musks. If even I could detect these barely smelling the opening for some minutes, it means this scent is really simple and balanced, and all components are there under your nose – which is something I always enjoy, no matter the quality of such components (to this extent). A pleasant "reading" for a clear, simple, delicate fragrance. A refreshing apple flavour (probably a side effect of aldehydes and flowers) and a sweet, fruity, cozy soft galaxolide base which smells of mellow musks. A chemical galore, of course: perfectly shaped and "rounded" around the composition which smells exactly the same for hours, with a great projection. But you know what? It does not compare to Coco, but it's not bad at all.


A Scent by Issey Miyake

Year: 2009
Nose: Daphne Bugey

Fresh, greengrass, somehow ozonic pungent opening (they say verbena, I'd say citral and calone), some white floral notes with light and slightly milky musks, a hint of sparkling ginger, some bittersweet fruity accents – almost pimiento-like. Light vetiver base. After a while it pops out a weird camphor-rubbery feel. Overall a cold, static, metallic, linear, artificial scent – sadly, not in an "avant-garde" meaning (forget CdG, Escentric or nu_be or other brands like these), rather a scent which wants to look pleasantly green and safe with just a hint of a – safe, again - "minimal look". Where "minimal" then turns into "anonym". Trendy and uninspired.


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