Year: 2011
Nose: Isabelle Doyen, Camille Goutal
I am a big fan of Annick Goutal although I have not tried or used many scents from this house, but this was just unexpected – still a gorgeous scent, perhaps the best among her range, but completely different from what I was used to until today. Except "Vetiver", which was so dry, sour and earthy I could barely wear it in winter, most of Goutal's scent were the most impressionist, oniric, delicate and fairytale side of my collection... until today. I would have never imagined Goutal could come out with such a thick, dense, dark, earthy scent. Strong, narcotic floral opening – tuberose? Narcissus? - iris, vanilla, some ambery warm, leather, tobacco, vetiver, cloves... guess what? None of that is actually there. Just iris, patchouli and a couple of notes. I never smelled such a complex and multifaceted scent which turns out to be composed of literally three or four components. No magic here (perhaps) – just an impressive quality, so high it brings the materials to life. The patchouli is leafy, earthy, vibrant, if you take it alone it's on its turn full of shades – dry, leathery, animalic, dusty, mossy, tobacco-ish. The iris is just gorgeous: an "old aunt lipstick" touch, shady, spicy, powdery, and the most natural, rich and dense I've ever tried. Overall it's an earth chypre, dusty and gloomy, with a prominent, monolithic iris note, dark and vibrant as a forest at night, so natural you feel it living and breathing. The drydow is calmer, still a marvellous iris in a sort of restrained, dry, dark, decadent earthy chypre accord with a palpable bitter dry base really close to leather, although there isn't. The name sounds quite a joke – nothing "petit" for no "chérie" here. Superb!
9/10
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