L'Art de la Guerre EDP by Jovoy

Year: 2014
Nose: Vanina Muracciole

L'Art de la Guerre opens with a beautiful, dusty, boozy accord of tobacco, patchouli, amber with fresh bergamot notes. Shady, meditative and sophisticated, with a gloomy, earthy and almost threatening natural-organic soul. The central note which is brilliantly encapsulated in the blend is a superb rhubarb rendition, which basically is halfway floral and fruity with crunchy, bittersweet nuances and an overall gloomy, edible, earthy, camphor and almost waxy feel. This waxy-earthy feel brilliantly links with the musky/powdery and mossy side of the scent, giving life to a sort of unique and "new" chypre, the rhubarb acting as a sort of disguised "replacement" for the animalic-powdery structure of classic chypres. One of the best Jovoy's so far in my opinion, if not the best one: it has an amazing, unique, sophisticated aromatic carnality with some really peculiar silky, but also stale-camphor shades, and a base dustiness of amber and patchouli. The rhubarb note (is that the new sensation for 2014?) gives it quite a unique personality, and for me it's one of the best "uses" of this note among the ones I've tried so far. It also eventually emerges a subtle, perfectly executed leather/suede note, with oak moss and a rooty-creamy note of violet and perhaps ginger. The overal pot-pourri is quite a fascinating rendition of "rootiness", an almost mystical depiction of the gloomy power of nature, not in a (more "predictable") green-floral way, rather focusing on dust, soil, roots, with even a hint of edible "vegetable" feel (the nondescript aroma of rhubarb). There is also a similarity to some '80s fougères at some points, especially to the drydown of the more mossy/leathery ones (first reference that came to my mind, among many others: Quorum by Puig). Which to me, speaking as a fan of that heritage, is of course a pleasant tribute to smell – I say "tribute" in a positive way, because it is a matter of some iconic notes of that class of scents (oak moss, tobacco, leather) which are perfectly blended in something different and new - bright and silky floral notes, a modern composition style, the rhubarb accord. On the drydown it all becomes more gentle, still dark, just more mellow and quieter, also adding a sort of licorice-like note, which I guess it's all the rooty-earthy potion just getting softer and therefore sweeter. Bold persistence. A genius hint of fresh-aromatic fruity/floral note (bergamot, apple) gives the scent a persistent silky breeze which perfectly blends with the overall gloominess. Brilliant!

8,5-9/10

Private Label EDP by Jovoy

Year: 2011
Nose: Cécile Zarokian

Finally a good – even great – Jovoy. All the scents I have tried from this house until now were just "ok", all with a "good" quality and a shy personality. This instead takes a step forward and just makes its statement - with a lot to say. The opening is unique and much interesting and captivating: fruity and sweet, but also boozy and dark, pungent, balsamic, pasty like thick asphalt. It made me suddendly think of the cover of the album "Crazy Love" by Mj Cole, where you see this champagne bottle with thick sticky dark asphalt pouring out of it. Quite the same initial feeling here. A sort of archaic, alchemic syrup, with a black, beautiful, liquid and almost rancid note that floats in the very deep of it. Vetiver and patcholi are there, liquified and rounded, rubbery, sticky, sensual, balsamic, moreover you get them more dry and earthy. It all slowly dries down becoming more smoky and leathery with a more bold waxy/rubbery vetiver note – always much dark and morbid without being cloying, meditative, really thick and beautiful. The drydown is surprisingly more "open" and aerial, silky and dusty, with a vanillin note and the balsamic accord which gets almost mentholated and refreshing. Close to some Liquides Imaginaires at some point. Really unique, but also safe to wear. Great persistence and projection.

8,5/10