Azzaro pour Homme (1978)

Hail!

Timeless. Not sure if it’s just an impression, but for some reasons I rarely see this mentioned among the “best masculines ever”, or at least among the best classic fougères – the more elegant and higher quality ones. Perhaps because of the subsequent decrease of Azzaro’s quality (Chrome flankers and the likes), or its excessively “functional” bottle with that brownish glass straight out of the ‘70s. Or because it’s so good, versatile and inexpensive everyone loves it – too “pop”, shortly, to reach the podium next to Guerlain’s or Chanel’s classics. Well, to me it deserves that entirely. Although I review this only now, to me it’s easily one of the most beautiful and perfect masculine perfumes ever made. A proper pillar which is not only a milestone, but is still today completely modern, elegant, good, versatile, simple but unforgettable, together exceedingly pleasant to wear – to this extent, actually quite more than other more appreciated classic fragrances (masterpieces, but perhaps more formal, or more outdated). What amazes me the most and what makes Azzaro pour Homme so unique and sets the difference with most of other fougères is the irresistible, manly, silky cleanliness of the herbal-floral accord of citrus, sage, lavender and anise: it’s cozy, fresh, gently sweet, bright and radiant but also velvety and “virile”, which then perfectly drifts on an endless drydown more on mossy-woody notes. Sage and anise give something here which you won’t find anywhere else. Perfect for any age, any time, any mood, without being generic or shallow – just perfect. Not much to say: one of the true masterpieces of masculine perfumery of any time. I am more familiar with the vintage version, which to me smells slightly richer and darker, but the current version is a must as well. Close relatives: Balmain Ebène (fresher, more formal), Aramis Tuscany (woodier, darker, and a bit more "meh").

10/10

Dusty corners - Bally Masculin

Year, nose, notes are unknown. All I know is that this smells great.

What a great surprise, and allow me to sincerely thank user “easyfish” on Basenotes for the sample of this ultra-rare – and ultra-forgotten - little gem. The opening is fantastic: a graceful, manly, slightly sweet herbal-smoky-leather accord with a peculiar and irresistibly elegant soft and velvety substance (not the usual “raw” leather you often get in vintage masculine scents; rather sharp, clean, soft finished leather), a fresh-balsamic breeze, subtle fruity hints, and a “classic” fougère base of patchouli, woods (mostly vetiver) and the leather accord. Dusty shades and earthy echoes complete the look of Masculin. Think of the discreet European elegance of Bally leather goods and shoes, Masculin perfectly translates that into a perfume. What amazed me is how the opening was similar to vintage Bel Ami: perhaps lighter, brighter and sweeter, and also less complex here, but truly quite similar – how can you not be sold to that? Then it progressively moves away from the Hermès, leaning towards herbal-woodier territories, finally reaching a cozy and totally refined drydown with gentle smoky leather-vetiver-herbal notes. Terribly pleasant, sophisticated and solid, with a quite distinctive fresh, understated, bright yet smoky refinement, and quite different from many other masculine scents of its era – mostly for this kind of “modern” sweet-ambery-aromatic “roundness” juxtaposed to its invigorating herbal-balsamic freshness (which is more “herbal” than predictably “piney” as it was in fashion back then). Discreet, mild and elegant close-to-skin persistence. Hard to find, completely underrated, totally worthy a “rediscover” for me.

8/10

Vintages, again! Three masculine picks

Jacomo de Jacomo by Jacomo (1980)

Jacomo de Jacomo opens with a hyper-black, hyper-dry fougère blend dusted with an intoxicating, overwhelming dose of dry and bold spices, notably cloves – pungent, harsh, almost rough. Really modern, if you ask me: the structure is of a classic masculine cologne (leather, patchouli, oak moss, woods, etc.), but this ultra-dry, black, spicy fog is pure “future baroque” for me. A really creative variation on the theme. Can’t really describe the smell exactly, but it’s really pungent, sour, dry and as I said, quite harsh. Together with oak moss and leather it creates a threatening and austere feel, like crashing on the dusty arid soil of a black planet (any Sisters of Mercy fan out there?). Think of some dark powerhouses like Krizia Uomo, Krizia Moods, Smalto PH, just with a crazy dose of cloves. Then however, quite soon a bit of the charme fades away; after one hour or so, as the spices tone down, it emerges the bone-structure of Jacomo, which is a more conventional and softer “barbershop” scent: woody, herbal, mossy and soapy, still spicy, dry and dark but a bit more friendly, lighter and more wearable (but also slightly more dull in a way, as without that crazy initial blackness it becomes more close to just another “generic” barbershop scent like many others – still good and still different, just with a bit less of that “special” added value). Anyway: an austere, creative and shady take on the classic masculine scent, fascinating and quite ahead of its time for sure, well crafted and a must for any “gloomy fougères” enthusiast.

7,5/10

++++++++++

Pour Homme by Francesco Smalto (1987)

Smalto pour Homme is a great powerhouse, much more peculiar and original than it may seem (or well, than it seemed to me). Basically it opens with a balsamic-citrus accord on a gloomy base of smoke, bold tan leather, oak moss, woods (vetiver, perhaps sandalwood), with a peculiar sort of "outdoors" herbal-anisic-tea breeze going around (I guess due to fennel and tarragon), together with other unusual and really well-played notes: I get something boozy, licorice, a colorful blend of spices and herbs. Somehow it’s a conventional “dark smoky fougère”, but it does just a step further, showing quite an interesting set of unique features: it does not have all the raw, austere, dry shadiness of many leathers like Knize, it’s not a skanky animalic scent like Ungaro II, not an oak moss beast like Quorum, and not only a herbal-aromatic fougère like Tsar... yet it has something of all of these, reshuffled in a an interesting, pleasant and recognizable way. It has something raw and playful, but at the same time it show a manly dark sophistication, really classy in its own way. It’s a powerhouse fougère, but it’s not similar to any other in particular, except for the names I mentioned above (Smalto basically smells like their hippie homeless cousin). And actually, for as much weird it may sound, it reminds me also of some contemporary niche scents, mostly for the unusual contrasts, the creativity, and the fact that it manages to smell not outdated at all. It’s much bold though, and after a while it may start to smell a bit boring (also because of the load of harsh spices you get on the drydown, similar as Jacomo de Jacomo for instance). As many powerhouses, it projects like a devil and lasts for ages. To rediscover!

7,5/10

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Fendi Uomo by Fendi (1988)

Fendi Uomo opens as a fresh-herbal aromatic fougère with an tamed down leathery-woody base, quite soft but “virile”, and an overall sharp barbershop feel (lavender, carnation, citrus notes, leather...). Fairly pleasant, clean and well made, but frankly also quite conventional, at least initially and for a while – in a “boring” meaning, much similar to many other fougères from the ‘80s in the same kind of leathery-herbal style (no powerhouses, no civet/leather bombs, rather just “dad’s classy aftershave”). Nonetheless, during the evolution it becomes more interesting, more unique and quite more fascinating: it gets darker, drier, losing a bit of its formal understatement and becoming more smoky, more austere, more sophisticated and shady. Fans of recent Amouage leather-based scents like Journey Man may like this (just compare the drydowns). It’s still somehow conventional, therefore still a tad boring honestly, but good. Overall I’d consider it a solid, compelling, understated, not-that-exciting “all-year-rounder”, unworthy any high price or chase, but worth a try for any herbal-leathery fougère fan.

6,5-7/10

Cuiron Pour Homme EDC by Helmut Lang

Year: 2002
Nose: Françoise Caron

The opening of Cuiron is mind-blowing for me, I received my bottle today after years of search and I'm happy like if it was Christmas. I tried this scent sometimes back when it was available, then forgot about it, then started looking for it, but the prices were always too high for me, and I stupidly missed some good bargains – this time I "nailed" it instead. And I am so amazed and happy to realize it's indeed the great scent I remembered. Together with Moschino pour Homme this is perhaps one of the very few "hyped" and "cult-like" discontinued scents which to me are actually worth the hype – had quite some disappointments with other ones. Well however... the opening of Cuiron: a salty, plummy, white musks, soapy-clean accord with bergamot and lime, violet petals, a silky, unperceivable suede-like base, Iso E/cashmeran-like cozy aromatic and soft woods, and a sort of tobacco dustiness which emerges better after a while, and a hint of spices (cloves, cinnamon, pepper). Daim Blond dressed in Lang. Can hardly think of anything more essential, refined, cozy. The name can be deceitful, as there is hardly no leather here, or at least surely no raw/dark/lived-in/tanning leather accords, not even "suede" as it is often rendered. Is just something completely on its own, it is a sort of ultra-thin, satin leather, which has undergone so many industrial treatments that it looks like plastic, or PU, but it's genuine. The silky, ultra-flat leather of a glossy lounge... but not even that, because there is so much abstraction and uniqueness here, that the only thing I can think of is "leather in Helmut Lang's world". Deeply and brightly post-modern in its completely new and innovative approach to the leather accord. What amazes me – apart from the scent itself, which smells just heavenly – is the fact that Cuiron manages to stay bold, dense, sharp, with a good projection and a good sillage, still being so minimalist, understated and essential. It's the same visual sharpness and boldness of constructivist architecture: few bold lines, but still a majestic presence. Utterly sophisticated in its own total way. Plus, it has a really peculiar sort of '80s fougère subtle aftertaste, which I am not able to identify, some sort of slightly salty/creamy density, which together with the suede note conjures this sort of feel. A really true and smart example of post-modernism in perfumery – taking an accord and a bunch of notes, cut them in pieces, re-pasting them with a minimalist détournement, giving it a complete but consistent new meaning. Brilliant. And as I said, jibber-jabbers aside, it smells irresistibly good, sharp, distinctive, quite linear but that's definitely part of the concept. I may be a voluble hype-victim but all this deserves a ten to me. Sadly it's most of the times insanely overpriced, and for me, despite the "10", not worth the pathetic greediness of sellers selling it at X times its original cost. Be patient, sometimes good bargains happen and you can still grab a bottle at a decent price.

10/10

Romeo Gigli per Uomo EDT by Romeo Gigli

Year: 1989
Nose: Uknown

This fragrance is an ultra-modern gem. I am so happy I received a bottle via a blind-swap (must say I highly respect and have confidence in the opinion of the beloved Basenoter I did the swap with... he said he loves it, I was quite sure I would have too). Romeo Gigli opens with one of the most pleasant, sophisticated, cozy and relaxed modern fougère accords ever. No sweat, no decadence, no hairy chests, no excessive gloominess: not a powerhouse for sure, even if it has the right amount of power and boldness. The initial accords make this scent stand quite on its own, there is lavender, aldehydes, balm, plum, vanilla, oak moss, cedar, citrus notes, resins, cloves, cardamom... an Oriental, aromatic, slightly fruity, floral-mossy-balmy blend. I know words fail a bit, but it is something I never smelled before. To try to give a rough idea, I feel a sort of "talcum" coziness, a dusty-transparent subtle metallic feel, something dusty, slightly powdery, balmy, soapy, mossy, the feeling of being just out of a relaxing bath in a cozy, not "luxury", just more cozy and understated hotel room, with a slightly cloudy weather outside, a garden below the window, but also a modern, artificial vibe, still aromatic, just more contemporary. Slightly shady too, I won't say dark, but melancholic perhaps. That may be the overall smell, that mixing of different suggestions, the realm is definitely contemporary and manly, just less predictable than in other scents. I get a feel of cleanliness, masculinity, silence, comfort, nostalgia. A heavily aromatic, romantic but self-confident scent. One of a kind for sure, it's masculine but in a bit more "feminine" and contemporary way, as it smells more delicate, more clean, more sophisticated than other "bolder" fougères. The drydown evolves then on a darker, bitter, woodier accord, basically only "losing" some floral notes and part of the initial talcum/balmy feel. Personally I am completely sold to this, as it's the perfect kind of scent I just love to wear, especially in the morning – I love masculine elegant scents with "something" nostalgic, dreamy, slightly feminine and understated. Darvant's review on Basenotes quite nailed it giving reference to "solitude" and a general quiet, meditative feel... andit's not the "incense" type of meditation, there's no spiritualism and no mysticism, what I keep thinking of is just a man chilling in the afternoon, rolled-up sleeves, quietly looking out of his hotel room window, in some Italian town – say, Rome. Not a Sheraton hotel, more a still elegant, hidden, understated hotel with just a touch of mystery – if you've been there, think of the quartiere Coppedé, with its Art Nouveau mansions, the gardens, the general melancholic calm. A complete gem.

9/10

Fougère galore - Three picks!

Three nice vintage fougères (well, specifically: a masterpiece, a great one, and a good one - in that order).

***

Moschino Pour Homme EDT by Moschino (1990)

A majestic, monolithic marvel of iris and leather with a stunning depth and range of facets, from animalic to herbal. Incredible quality – both of materials and composition. The opening is just breathtaking: powerful, fresh and juicy, dry and animalic, with a dark, dense vetiver heart, floral notes, a waxy, decadent iris side which evolves in the best way I've ever smelled. Bergamot, lavender and balsamic notes – its classic "eau de cologne" side – beautifully blend with a balsamic/mossy breeze and a dry, rich, dusty, materic leather note, really vibrant and multifaceted. By far one of the most pleasant leathers I've ever tried... and we're talking about real, crisp leather, so forget nowadays' overpriced safraleine-based crap leathers which smell like burnt tires (Cuir Garamante and the like, anyone?). A sort of mediterranean, shady, hyeratic fougère with two major, incredible-quality main characters – leather and iris. The drydown lets the duo emerge even better, all the side/head notes gently vanish until you get this endless, perfect accord, which lasts for hours, with a gentle hint of talcum. Also, after a while the drydown gets unexpectedly slightly similar to Heeley's Cuir Pleine Fleur – just a bit more vast, dry, dense, less floral and transparent. Astonishing quality. Also really contemporary and wearable, I know sometimes the terms "1990s" and "fougère" may let you think of "old" stuff... this instead has a linear and vibrant personality which looks perfectly "fit" and modern.

10/10

***
Quorum EDT by Antonio Puig (1982)

Rich, dense, raw opening in a perfectly classic fougère style. A textured blend of green balsamic notes on spices and citrus drips, with a rich and natural oak moss note on ambers and bold, resinous aromatic woods. The leather note emerges as minute pass: honest, shady, solid, slightly rubbery and dry. A great, manly, elegant, rich and self-conscious fougère – still not tacky or cloying. With just a hint of that gloomy, sweaty personality many powerhouses had in the 70s/80s (some more elegant and understated fougères like Tsar are like old, classic Mercedes cars; this is rather the fast & noisy Alfetta Spider). Highy wearable today as well. I own a vintage version and I have heard is has subsequently been reformulated on a more green/fresh tone – probably still good, I don't know.

8,5/10

(Sorry for the cra*py picture but I wanted to display the proper vintage box & bottle).

***

Gengis Khan EDT by Marc de la Morandière (1990)

Herbal, mossy, coniferous, balsamic and resinous: pine needles, fir balsam, crunchy branches... and a thin, rarified black fog. Evocative and really pleasant. "Evocative" because it actually makes you think of a calm, green, meditative, smoky forest, not a predictable Western forest but something slightly different, with a touch of mystery and exotism. Perhaps it's a peculiar quality of incense, however it smells "green" but in quite an unique way, a darker, thicker, smokier way, and I love it. Elegant and understated at the same time, not a "powerhouse" and quite creative and modern considering the age. After a while an aquatic – not calonic, rather "salty" – note comes in, finding its way in that sharp, pleasant, cozy balsamic-mossy aroma. I also smell a slight metallic feel which may be due to aldehydes and that however, gives the scent a nice "retro-futuristic" vibe. Not a masterpiece, but refined and interesting. Beautifully ugly bottle (I am referring to the original bottle - and to the vintage scent, by the way).

7,5-8/10

Phileas EDT by Nina Ricci

Year: 1984
Nose: Unknown

Juniper, aldehydes, balsamic notes, pine needles, pungent dry green notes, a peculiar salty and almost metallic base, leather, geranium freshness. Spicy, unique, old crackling leather, squeaky gears, antique herbs with a rusty feel. The mossy/balsamic note is beautiful, fresh, not sticky neither resinous at all – vibrant, windy, dry. The base is unique as well, a sort of soapy feel but not in the usual "somptous iris" chypre meaning – more of a domestic, dry soap, for instance the Marseille soap or other cleaners. Then it emerges a gorgeous leather note with liquorice, patchouli and roasted coffe notes – again all really dry, earthy and straightforward. Earthy and herbal in a totally unique way, with a salty/rusty feel which is just perfect – and also, the perfect olfactory depiction of the cultural reference for this (a fictional Victorian explorer: herbs, leather, rust, it's all there). Not even that complex, just unique and one of a kind. Absolutely worth the purchase – which I am given to understand may be challenging: I keep my bottle safe - and really elegant.

8,5-9/10

Salvador Dali pour Homme EDT by Salvador Dali

Year: 1985
Nose: Thierry Wasser

A haunting, claustrophobic genius fragrance which smells like nothing else. And makes nowadays' "gloomy" and dark animalic scents smell like candies. Not to stick to clichés due to the signature on the box, but the first minutes are actually a great surrealist olfactory journey in a weird, ghastly, bizarre world made of rancid fruits, carcasses, thick petrol, narcotic herbs, black rubbery sticky smoke. You really feel yourself stuck in a locked closet submerged by any kind of curiosités. And above all, or below all, a really elegant, timeless, subtle but bold fougère accord with a prominent smoke/black woods accord, which is just lying there, far and silent – an old man looking at you crawling in this gloomy, cadaveric circus of notes. Maybe Dalì himself, that is fun to see this that way. An amazingly evocative and morbid scent in which I can barely detect a couple of the notes which are supposed to be there – pure alchemic transformation into a unique, straightforward, undiscernible liquid. It takes a bit of time to love this potion, but when you start doing it, it's just one of the most unique and captivating fragrances ever made. And most important, back on Earth... a bit challenging but not as much it may seem (just a tad too rubbery after a while - better in cold days I guess).

8,5/10