Showing posts with label Andy Tauer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Andy Tauer. Show all posts

Pentachord Verdant by Andy Tauer (2011)



Nose: Andy Tauer

Pentachord Verdant shares the same issue I personally detect in many fragrances by Andy Tauer. They’re intellectually very fascinating and thrilling, they’re exceedingly evocative and realistic, they succeed very well in keeping a decided, peculiar sort of artificial vein well combined with a truthful organic nature; but they don’t smell like something I would wear. Ever. Or that I think anyone would want to wear. Tauer hasn’t admittedly a formal training, and while that is surely a plus when it comes to creative freedom and composing “out of the box”, it sometimes turns into a disadvantage for him. And that is the case for Pentachord Verdant in my opinion.

Pentachord Verdant is basically a tremendously intriguing “smell” which brilliantly evokes the smell of damp grass, wet soil, freshly-cut branches, all with a sort of dark, cold, sharp feel, brilliantly combined with an artificial sort of quite heavy oily-gasoline greyish note that smells basically like someone pouring fuel on grass – You and Your Lawnmower, a Romance by Andy Tauer. As usually with most of Tauer's fragrances, the smell is quite sharp and almost harsh at first, stuffed with cold salty ambroxan and a thin, cutting layer of nondescript metallic spices giving the natural side of the fragrance that peculiar “artificial trim” which characterizes many scents by this nose. I don’t get any tobacco actually, to me it’s all a cascade of nose-tingling spicy sharp greenness seasoned with steamy gasoline. The evolution is just more about the volume decreasing, but I detect no particular transitions or movements – just the same identical thing losing strength and projection as hours pass (but that’s fine, and it actually gets almost pleasant after a while).

And, well... you may guess my conclusion (there’s not much else to say about the notes or the evolution, so we can skip to the end). I can’t help it, call me a tight-ass “classicist”, but this is too much on the very extreme fence between a perfume and a smell – not a stink, just an experimental smell which has little to do with perfumery. I mean, it’s not that any smell can automatically turn into a perfume just by a linguistic transition. It’s just too edgy, unstructured and crude to work as a fragrance in my opinion. It’s great to spray it and smell it, it’s amazingly realistic and it’s fantastic how it evokes the combined smell of wet grass, soil and gasoline, truly a hyperrealistic portrait of Mr. Smith’s Sunday morning mowing the lawn. But why on Earth shall I want to smell like that?

5,5-6/10

L'Air du Desert Marocain EDTI by Tauer



Year: 2005
Nose: Andy Tauer

It took me a while to come up with a decent review of this (this does not imply the following actually is decent). I love this scent, but the only thing I could think of when spraying it on was: "it's so good, I love it, but I can not get why and what this smells like". In fact, this scent smells quite like nothing else. It is really unique and almost simple, meaning that once you spray it, you can instantly recognise it if you smell it later on elsewhere; but it has a really complex and tight texture, mostly synthetic for me (and not in a bad meaning), with a great balance and a superb evolution. The opening is really dense and breathtaking, and ambery-spicy accord which is hard to "enter". You have to just wait for it to open. Bold incense feel, in quite a contemporary and "chemical" way – I'd guess mostly due to the infamous ambroxan. I also get bergamot, lavender, cinnamon, cedar, vanilla, oak moss, some balsamic/stale vibes, with a super warm and vibrating silky heart. Not saying all that is here, it's just the suggestions I get. Plus, the architecture is really great, I rarely get in touch with such vaste, multidimensional, powerful and architectural scents. And the best is still yet to come. As minutes pass, and without losing a gram of power, it slowly opens up like a sunrise, the warm heart you felt somewhere there at the very center of the scent just comes closer and blossoms up, literally enlightening the fragrance. That is just great, I know it's perhaps a "synthetically-achieved" effect, but who cares; it's brilliant. It's like watching a dawn, it all becomes aerial and spacious, dimensional, and smells just great, slowly becoming cozy, dusty, ambery on a base of dark and dry woods and spices. I never felt the "air of Moroccan desert" in person, but this definitely depicts the ambiance really good. Great projection (a modern powerhouse, I'd say!) and an everlasting persistence.

9/10

Update: no Iso E as I presumptuosly blind-guessed, thanks Andy for your generous explanation & support!