Showing posts with label Agonist. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Agonist. Show all posts

June poop!

Fragrant poop from my June tests. As usual, no pics, no years, no noses for the shame corner - you don't want details, do you?

________________________________________
________________________________________

Sì by Giorgio Armani

The opening is the quintessential basics of chain-store chic: fruity-floral galaxolide (that beloved, generic, tasty shampoo feel), a bold aldehydes-driven roundness, creamy musky notes (milky ketones), a light green touch a totally anonym floral bouquet, glossy as a stock archive image of a bunch of flowers. Pleasantly, uselessly dull.

4/10
________________________________________

Onyx Pearl by Agonist

Onyx Pearl opens with a cozy, transparent, artificial bouquet of woody/velvety aromachemicals, among which probably Iso E, cashmeran, ambroxan, a salty metallic note which may be due to some aldehydes, some synthetic amber, counter-balanced – not that well, to me – by a central note delivering quite a weird and nondescript smell, really dry and rubbery, somehow sticky and terpenic too, sweet-ish and cloying, halfway agarwood and pineapple, if that makes some sense. If that's leather, it's a leather sub-genre I did not knew and I don't really need to explore further, as I find "that" note, or accord, frankly unpleasant and disturbing, not in a good way. As soon as some dissonances vanish away, it all progressively simplifies into something a bit more enjoyable and interesting, that "thing" slowly becomes a more recognizable synthetic leather/suede note, still not exactly pleasant to me (again, a weird rubbery-sweet-salty concoction, just lighter than before), but you feel it's on its way to settle down to something nicer. Which in fact happens after a couple of hours, you basically remain with the plain, but aromatic, silky and sophisticated coziness o Iso E/cashmeran drydown, that kind of woody-suede feel. Overall I find this scent a bit messy and uninspired, which manages to become only barely pleasant thanks to the effortless - but kind of generic and cheap - elegance of the abovementioned aromachemicals. More than "uninspired" I actually don't get its point precisely. Perhaps it's my lack of sensitivity for "avant-garde" scents, but it's a "no" for me.

4,5-5/10


The Infidels EDP by Agonist



Year: 2010
Nose: Fabrice Pellegrin

Rich, thick, interesting texture, still quite delicate and pleasant. It suddendly reminded me (like a "madeleine") of Divine for women, the first fragrance Divine made I think in the early '90s or late '80s. Basically it is an opulent and dense scent in a really classic manner, a fruity graceful chypre rich in flower notes with a heart of dark rose, amber and aromatic woods, really coloured and dynamic, very deep and elegant. A sort of brighter, less somptuous, less decadent but still quite complex version of some Amouage's. However it is not worth the price tag which I've heard is crazy – the Divine I mentioned should be fairly similar but with a far more affordable price. Horrible bottle, by the way (sorry).

7/10

Black Amber EDP by Agonist



Year: 2011
Nose: Fabrice Pellegrin

The "flow of consciousness" of notes I feel at the opening: amber, incense, lavender, linalol, clove, pepper, cardamom, nutmeg, cinnamon, benzoin, pepper, vanilla, aromatic woods (cedar?)... most of them I don't know if are actually there but that is how the opening smells to me. Basically a sweet and spicy amber, with a pleasant, bold opening. It then slowly becomes a bit more green-balsamic as minutes pass, some herbal feel with a mentholated touch – kind of CdG realm. That's a nice transation. You feel the pungent feel of ambroxan on the base, the cedar and the styrax, and also a tiny bit of dry and a bit plastic patchouli – does not smell great, but it is still fine for the purpose. And that linalool insecticide vibe, subtle but persistent from the very beginning. Frankly this overall smells a bit dull to me – the amber/incense/green notes accord is nice, but also a bit confused and... I don't know, not catchy. Pale, perhaps. Anyway, overall this scent is closer to some green incenses CdG's like Sugi or Zagorsk, more than to amber-based scents. Short persistence (too short for me). Nice, but not worth the price tag for me.

6,5-7/10