Five by Bruno Fazzolari (2013)

Wow. The opening (and well, the evolution too) of Five by Fazzolari is just “wow”. Powerful, deep, extremely clear and completely unique, at least for my experience. A very innovative sort of classic “eau de cologne” with citrus, edgy green notes and a very light powdery-mossy base... but richly infused with a sort of thick, evocative salty-watery feel. I would use the term “ozonic” if it wasn’t so abused and associated to so much garbage. But it is indeed “ozonic” in the most truthful and genuine sense possible. I know what you may think then – “well, basically an ozonic citrus scent?”. Theoretically yes. But actually no, not really. That would be the “concept”, but the notes and the way they’re blended smell deeply different from what you may think and surely from any ozonic-fresh scent I know. Mostly because of the herbal-watery feel, which is truly puzzling. It’s mindblowing for how realistic, faceted, shimmering and deep it is, and for how it interacts with the other notes. It smells truly like damp seaweeds and wet rocks with a gentle uplifting herbal breeze – imagine that, impeccably blended with a more formal “eau de cologne” fragrance (so citrus and lavender, basically).

It’s actually hard for me to do this scent some justice only with words, but yes, probably thinking of a classic “eau de cologne” rich in citrus and powdery notes blended with the invigorating smell of a sunny late afternoon lying on a damp rock on some cozy Sardinian cove, may more or less suggest what Five is about. With a clarity, a richness and a persistence I’ve never, ever experienced with this genre of scents. Truly perfect.  Maybe Villoresi Uomo is a similar, and similarly amazing, unusual and rich Mediterranean interpretation of a classic citrus-herbal cologne, but lacking in what makes Five so special - that bold “iodine-watery” element  which is, well, just brilliant – and is actually the main vein of Five (I mean the main “accord”, it’s quite powerful). Again, please don’t imagine any “calone” thing, or some flat chemical “salty” garbage as in many “sea-salt” niche scent – this is lukewarm, organic, rich living sea water diluted with a distinguished vintage citrus-powdery cologne and a sort of somehow fitting metallic aftertaste (which paired with citrus and a subtle darker mossy base, kind of reminds me of Christopher Street by Charenton Macerations). Fantastic drydown, with the “sea” effect taking the stage over the “eau de cologne” part, leaving a trail of fresh herbs and marine water on your skin. Probably the most interesting, clever and well executed variation on a classic citrus-herbal scent I’ve ever tried, and surely the bes t “marine” fragrance on the market for me.

8,5-9/10

Lampblack by Bruno Fazzolari (2013)

Are USA indie brands the real future of "good" niche? Seems so.

A woody-leathery-citrus symphony with a ton of class. The wood here is dry, dark and rubbery, quite close to leather (hence my definition above), with a mellow smoky vetiver note and a “woodier” vein than usual, made drier and darker by cypriol (I guess). On the polar opposite, bright and astringent citric notes; in the middle, something peppery – I see black pepper listed but it seemed also a bit reddish to me - and bitter leafy notes. That’s it. It may sound ordinary, but it’s not, mostly because of its sort of really peculiar “angular” texture. The feel here is really sharp: the citrus notes are much bitter, the woods are particularly dark, sour and rubbery; but they’re all so precisely, elegantly juxtaposed that the whole thing smells perfectly sophisticated, classy, understated, solid and harmonic. It’s like a white and black constructivist piece of design – bold shapes and sharp angles, which can look messy and out of proportion until you find the perfect angles to juxtapose them. And here’s harmony, flawless beauty and class. Lampblack works similarly, in a way: a few contrasting notes, dark corners and light beams, all really “bold” in their own way, put together with elegance and sharp precision. The drydown is respectively more bitter on the green-citric side, and more roasted-rubbery and drier on the base line, which makes the woody vetiver notes smell even more close to leather. Perfect class, great evolution. Personally I find the drydown a tad too bitter-astringent and kind of “sweaty” after a while, but other than that, Lampblack is more than remarkable and surely worthy a try.

7,5-8/10