Horrible packaging, fantastic juice. No wonder that Flori is the nose behind this.
Nose: Jacques Flori
Noir by Reminiscence opens with a really powerful and hyper-dark blend, somehow fresh somehow stale and dusty (and also fairly harsh initially), in a way similar both to many niche scents, and several vintage masculine scents (Arrogance, Trussardi Uomo...). Basically it’s a really gloomy concoction comprising bitter-minty herbs (eucalyptus), balsamic woods, patchouli, incense, a shady and sour resinous base with a bold indolic-urinous musky aftertaste, softened by a subtle ambery-resinous accord and brightened by a light citrus-floral accord which is barely perceivable initially. I think I also get something salty (vetiver?), and perhaps something like leather too. Basically Noir can be roughly defined in my opinion as a really dark herbal-woody-resinous Oriental fragrance mostly tending to mossy-earthy-incense territories, and for a while with quite a bold indolic-roasted note underneath, well contrasted by a refreshing quite bitter citrus-minty head accord. It reminds me of several fougères as I said, but with a decidedly contemporary texture – so shortly, don’t worry about smelling “outdated”: this is a modern, sharp, polished scent. The drydown is really pleasant, more tending towards soft, velvety notes of smoke, incense, resins, sandalwood, still dark overall but less raw. It also emerges better the soapy-dusty accord of violet and rose. All smells solid, rich, and also quite unique in a way: I named a couple of scents as a rough reference, but actually Noir smells much “new” to me to many extents – new, yet nostalgic in some way. It’s interesting because it can easily be pulled off by fougères nostalgics as much as “niche-heads”, which I guess makes it a particularly solid scent. Surprisingly creative, although a bit linear once it enters the (endless) drydown. Another cheapo (I forgot to mention that; 35 eur/100 ml here) easily surpassing so many expensive scents quality & creativity-wise. Addictive!
8-8,5/10
Showing posts with label Reminiscence. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Reminiscence. Show all posts
Sunday's Crap Roundup #1
It was a dirty job, but someone had to do it.
***
Do Ré by Réminiscence
Year: 2008
Nose: Jacques Flori
Bold sweet-bozy opening which smells exactly like the boozier adult version of the cough syrup I used to take when I was the child. Fava tonka, almond, vanilla – kind of "Amaretto di Saronno" feel, which in turn is basically Baiser du dragon by Cartier. All wrapped in cheap candy shower soap. Dull choco-patchouli drydown. Next!
4/10
***
Coquelicot by Il Profumo
Year: 2008
Nose: Silvana Casoli
A gallon of aromachemicals among which, probably, at least calone, melonal and galaxolide, thrown in this with the same grace a cleaner man would use when throwing away the bucket of dirty water after having cleaned an entire floor. Basically a fruity shampoo, just less creamy and sweet, and more transparent, with a bitter green/herbaceous feel and a refreshing vibe. Also a salty/metallic vibe due to some other aromachemicals I don't spot exactly. After a while you get a round and mellow ambery base still with a green leafy note and a light patchouli note. Close to skin. Dull!
4/10
***
Noir Gabardine by LM Parfums
Year: 2011
Nose: Jerome Epinette
Just gross. It starts like a 90's sporty "eau de cologne" mixed with a Daim Blond like suede accord. Vaguely salty and a bit synthetic. Then it suddendly pops out a spooky leather-vanillic accord which is just... wrong, halfway between gingerbread and burnt soup. Try to imagine a dry, dark, burnt-rubber leather (safraleine) note mixed with a milky rancid vanillin note. Then this sickening accord fades away again and you're back on the sporty cologne side. Totally disturbing – not in a cool way.
3/10
***
Do Ré by Réminiscence
Year: 2008
Nose: Jacques Flori
Bold sweet-bozy opening which smells exactly like the boozier adult version of the cough syrup I used to take when I was the child. Fava tonka, almond, vanilla – kind of "Amaretto di Saronno" feel, which in turn is basically Baiser du dragon by Cartier. All wrapped in cheap candy shower soap. Dull choco-patchouli drydown. Next!
4/10
***
Coquelicot by Il Profumo
Year: 2008
Nose: Silvana Casoli
A gallon of aromachemicals among which, probably, at least calone, melonal and galaxolide, thrown in this with the same grace a cleaner man would use when throwing away the bucket of dirty water after having cleaned an entire floor. Basically a fruity shampoo, just less creamy and sweet, and more transparent, with a bitter green/herbaceous feel and a refreshing vibe. Also a salty/metallic vibe due to some other aromachemicals I don't spot exactly. After a while you get a round and mellow ambery base still with a green leafy note and a light patchouli note. Close to skin. Dull!
4/10
***
Noir Gabardine by LM Parfums
Year: 2011
Nose: Jerome Epinette
Just gross. It starts like a 90's sporty "eau de cologne" mixed with a Daim Blond like suede accord. Vaguely salty and a bit synthetic. Then it suddendly pops out a spooky leather-vanillic accord which is just... wrong, halfway between gingerbread and burnt soup. Try to imagine a dry, dark, burnt-rubber leather (safraleine) note mixed with a milky rancid vanillin note. Then this sickening accord fades away again and you're back on the sporty cologne side. Totally disturbing – not in a cool way.
3/10
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