Maria Candida Gentile new line: "The flight of the Bumblebee" (2014)

I've tested the new three scents by Maria Candida Gentile which compose the series "The flight of the Bumblebee", all connected by the presence of a honey note. She presented them at Pitti Fragranze and a friend kindly handed me the samples (which sadly did not impress me that much). Here's my observations about them.


Syconium is probably the best one among this new line by Gentile. It is basically a resinous, slightly milky scent with a sort of exotic allure all over (I honestly smell notes of tonka, almond and ginger, although they're not listed in the brand's website), comprising a heart of honey or beeswax, probably vanilla (dusty, rich, savoury), a solid accord of sweet yet realistic sandalwood and a green-floral and slightly fruity layer that makes the overall "spicy-gourmand" feel appear lighter and brighter. I guess the fig note is there, somewhere, although I do not get it well - perhaps both my "milky" and "fruity-green" references are due to that. Anyway, I like this scent because apart from the good quality of materials and the clever and balanced composition (which makes such an apparently "bold" blend smell sharp, clean, lively and dynamic), it is really evocative and nostalgic, making me think of cozy villages and rural fairs, with their smells and flavours of trees, plants, candies and sweets (gingerbread). Mediterranean but also Oriental in a way, simple and friendly, lively, graceful, much aromatic and pleasantly understated. Mellow and soft evolution. Well done!



Kitrea is a(nother) Mediterranean-inspired ozonic scent which tries to make the calone note smell gentler and warmer by blending  it with floral notes, amber, resinous-spicy notes (honey, tonka) and a subtle yet pleasant, silky and fresh aromatic breeze of something like bergamot or orange leaves. I must admit that Maria Candida Gentile is basically the only brand out there which is able to deliver decent "sea" scents which smell nice and not too much metallic or artificially boring. She nailed it with Finisterre, and she nails it again with Kitrea. What I enjoy the most here is the work around the "sea" note, which is wrapped up in a warm, silky, fresh and really aromatic mixture of notes, that manage to conceal its "bad" nuances and enhance the more pleasant ones, making it look like a credible and evocative watercolors painting of the Mediterranean landscape (not that it's the first one doing it, though). I still don't like this family of scents, but among them, this is surely one of the best around.




Houston, we've a problem. Straight to the point: Leucò is inexplicably too light and faint on my skin. And by this I mean I had some serious issues in coming up with a review since I could barely smell "something" with quite a lot of effort. I applied it then reapplied it, and did the same the day after, still what I smelled was just an ultra-delicate accord of woods (cashmeran? That type of clean, silky woods), something slightly resinous and pollen-sweet (olibanum, and I guess honey), a really subtle floral-green note which may be tea, and an unperceivable hint of earthy white flowers - the tuberose, I presume, which I always considered one of the most slap-in-your-face floral notes around. Nothing more. And believe me: it was all *really* light, light like the drydown of an average EDT the day after you applied it. And all of this, which is basically like trying to catch noises in the desert, lasted for less than one hour, then it was completely gone. Clean skin. Now I respect Maria Candida Gentile too much (well, "enough") to judge this as a "no" scent, perhaps my sample was corrupted or I've issues in detecting some notes. I'll just leave it with a question mark waiting to read other comments about this scent (to see if it's me or what...).


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