Year: 2008
Nose: Alessandro Gualtieri
Finally a decent Nasomatto under my nose. This is nice, even good. A minimalist, clean, yet not dull super-synthetic concept à la Helmut Lang, Costume National and Geza Schoen, with just a touch of nature, a really shaped and restrained incense note, a rarefied, narcotic and somehow sensual blend of green/herbal notes with a fruity heart (osmanthus?), a nice tobacco/tar base, dusty but velvety, with a bitter shadiness which is almost leathery, ambroxan perhaps, cedar woods and cashmeran – in short, the "pencil sharpener" effect. To be honest this heavily reminds me of another scent which I do not recall, perhaps one by LesNez or Coze 02, or Chamarré by Mona di Orio, however I have this "dejà-vu" feel. Anyway the scent is simple, delicate, subtle and ultra thin, undoubtably "easy" from the point of view of the composition (I mean the easiness of achieving this synthetically), but in its own way it's utterly sophisticated, elegant, somehow distinctive and fascinating, most of all because of an interesting green-dusty tobacco axe and an overall tasty "dustiness" which is not soapy, not "concrete-like", not earthy, slightly medicinal and herbal, just quite unique – in short, this time Gualtieri quite nailed it if the reference was cocaine (something he did not with that pathetic Afgano thing). A totally contemporary feel, a palpable, clean, neon-like and aerial transparency, elusive and delicate but "there". A bit too much delicate perhaps, and with a ridiculously short persistence (what's the point of selling an "extait" of this?). A nice, a bit trendy rendition of a trendy drug. At half of its price it may be worth a purchase.
7,5/10
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