Year: Unknown
Nose: Dominique Dubrana
Cuoio Tartaro opens with a beautiful, sharp accord of balsamic, dense, clean vetiver notes blended with a mossy/earthy side with a slight aniseed touch, on a subtle musky castoreum base, initially quite thin and cozy, almost unpalpable, but with a specific and perceivable organic stickiness. I also detect other woods like perhaps cedar, a leaf of tobacco, and overall, a remarkable and substantial lymphatic feel of humidity, which may be due to a hay note (which in turn links to the mossy-aniseed accord). My nose, as most of fragrance enthusiasts' noses, is well used to synthetic scents (partially, or mostly), so I instantly felt all the "naturality" of this fragrance, which lies in a palpable transparency, a freshness, a clarity of all the notes, even if the mood is more of a "shady" woody/musky scent, it is in fact at the same time bright and vibrant. The reference to "tartars" is not out of place, since there is a spicy vibe which emerges more and more clearly as minutes pass, and that brings in a mystic feel which blends with the "barbaric" animalic base. This spicy accord which comes in is a beautiful, "culinary" herbal/spicy blend, I detect cumin and perhaps a microscopic hint of aromatic herbs like oregano. A subtle ginger note emerges too, together with a delicate, ethereal floral note, really subtle, which softens the woody-animalic general austerity and the overall meditative mood. The depiction of leather is achieved brilliantly by a "mosaic" of suggestions, there is no tricks, no safraleine/norlimbanol rubbery smell which delivers a more common "leather note"... basically here it's rather an evocation of the "feel" of leather, that comes from a smart blend of vetiver, woods, spices, mossy notes and that subtle animalic base. It can therefore disappoint you, if your were looking for an ordinary, easy, "shouted", artificial leather note, but if you get the mood and the point, then it's a stunning fragrance, honest and sensitive, perhaps enigmatic, but incredibily fascinating. Overall this is a terrific aromatic scent, cozy, mellow, really pleasant, also much elegant, genuine, wearable by anyone. It eventually dries progressively on the drydown, coming closer to a leather idea, still keeping several beautiful nuances – balsamic, woody-aromatic, spicy, mossy, with a sweet/ambery note too for a while. A fascinating fragrance to be enjoyed "per se", not a monster scent in terms of projection and sillage – rather a cozy, pleasant experience to enjoy by yourself, a naturality which implies the patience and the ability to enjoy something closer to skin, something more intimate and elusive. Rather linear as regards of the evolution, and with a delicate but fairly long persistence. This is my first encounter with AbdesSalaam creations and I am totally intrigued, can't wait for the future ones.
8,5-9/10
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